Sparks.

Sparks.
210 East 46^th St.

Sparks, under the seal of the “Cerra Brothers Steak Masters” was established in 1966 by brothers Mike & Pat Cerra, thus the seal may be wholly meaningless. Also, there is a very helpful picture of the family, though it looks much older than 1966, on their website. It moved to its current location in 1977 – it seems they have not redecorated since (nor put much effort into the initial design*).

Apps – We had the tomato & onion salad with Roquefort Cheese Dressing. Sparks also included w/o additional charge, the Italian dressing, thus we had a highly dressed salad. In any case, it was OK, the tomatoes were not fantastic, nor particularly thick cut (were they beefsteak? Does beefsteak mean anything?). There was a redeeming value in tat I love a Roquefort cheese. Overall, B-.

Steak – A-/B+. the Sirloin steak was really, really delicious. The outside was wonderfully charred, with a meaty & fleshy red center. It was well salted and buttered (I love a well buttered steak), but these flavors were muted to some degree and the flavor of the beef really stood out. Bite after bite I was remarkably pleased with this cut of meat. In fact, as I recall it, my stomach grumbles, and I wish I could head back there right now.

Sides – C-, I was dissatisfied with our sides, obviously creamed spinach and hash browns. The spinach was plain, and though it did have a clear spinach taste, I prefer one that has flavors of butter, cream, bacon & nutmeg (i.e. Morton’s CS) in addition to the spinach flavor. It was also a bit runny. The potatoes were also under whelming.

One measure to describe the difference between the meat and the sides it hat normally, I am torn between whether I want my next bite to be 1) meat, 2) sides, 3) combo bite** . At Sparks, I had really no interest in the sides whatsoever. It is a testament to the steak in some degree, but more so a disappointment in the sides

Dessert – No desserts

Overall. I would give Sparks a B+. I would readily return and look forward to trying anther Sirloin, which really was delicious, the sides really kept this meal from reaching the upper echelons of the Steak Parade.

AWARDS:

2001 NY POST rated Sparks best Steakhouse in Manhattan.

* For example, we sat beneath a wall of oil paintings in heavily gilded gold frames of the obviously relevant theme, large sailing ships. On the wall across from us was what could properly be described as the wall of nature and deers (though there was not venison on the menu…)

** I have a love/hate relationship with the combo bite. I love the sides, but do I sully the meat with these extraneous flavors? At Mortons I go back and forth, straight meat, combo bite, straight meat, combo bite, etc…